by Birgit
The following details help you to get inspired for your adventure design.
Reinforcements in general are a second more durable layer for protection. They are sewn on top of another fabric. A durable coated fabric provides protection from moisture as well as rough surfaces, sharp edges, debris or terrain when in use.
A small hem reinforcement protects the inseam nicely and does not add as much weight to the hem area as a full hem protection.
Use: Coated or uncoated, stretch or non-stretch Fabrics such as Cordura, Kevlar or Kebrotec.
These seams are designed to give you the opportunity to use different uncoated more durable fabrics for certain areas on your pants or let you play with different colors. At the same time the pants stay fully breathable.
A durable breathable uncoated fabric should be your choice here.
Use: Uncoated or waxed, stretch or non-stretch fabrics such as Cordura, Supplex Nylon with Cordura, Kevlar or EtaProof/CottonVentile.
They keep you safe when moving in the dark on the road, walking, cycling...
There are different options out on the market. There are different options out on the market. Piping and edging in stretch and non-stretch, ready cut shapes, by-the-meter fabric….
I prefer the by the meter stuff, as I can cut my own shapes. Reflector fabric comes in different colors, even in black.
Small holes in your garments or gear can be nicely repaired with a reflective patch.
Cotton, fine strong mesh and Polyester Taffeta fabrics are nice to use as lining fabrics. They can give your pants a nice individual touch. They also keep your garment breathable and lighter. The seams stay thinner and less bulky.
Search through your fabric shrap box. I am sure you will find big enough pieces for pocket linings, pocket facings, fly-faces and shields, waistband facings, belt loops, flaps, flap facings, loop hangers….
For all outdoor garment making, I recommend using a thicker thread, NM 70, 75 or 80. Use a good quality Polyester thread, a Cotton/Polyester blend or a Nylon (Polyamide) thread. The seams will be stronger and the topstitching gives your garments a much nicer look.
Topstitching has mainly two reasons. The first one is to strengthen a seam and the second one is the looks. A seam with double parallel topstitching is stronger than a seam with only one. Sometimes it looks nicer to use one narrow 2mm parallel topstitch, and other times a 6-7mm wide parallel topstitch just looks more technical.
I personally prefer the 6-7mm wide topstitch for most seams. On pocket opening seams I combine it with understitching. It gives the opening a strong edge.
Tip 1: A longer stitch length always looks better.
Tip 2: Due to the coating of waterproof fabrics, it is best to use one topstitching line. Less and longer stitches keep these seam stronger.
Grosgrain ribbon is mostly made from Polyester. It is strong, thin and easy to sew on. It comes in different widths, from 5 - 50mm. For example, give your garments a more technical look and use it at places where too many layers are difficult to sew through.
Usage ideas:
- cover open seam allowances,
- cover & protect zipper endings,
- bind in open edges,
- protect seams,
- extend seam allowances,
- as a loop hanger,
- attache plastic or metal parts,
- give your garment a more technical look,
- help fixing holes,
- reinforce corners & edges
by Birgit, Katharina & Susan